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Pozole, the original Aztec soup with a fascinating history (yes, it was prepared with human flesh)

pozole
Pozole is especially prominent during the 15th, when Mexicans commemorate the Grito de Dolores and Independence Day

Pozole, a beloved traditional Mexican dish, is more than just a hearty soup. It’s a culinary symbol deeply tied to Mexico’s culture and history. Often associated with festive celebrations, it is especially prominent during the Noche Mexicana on September 15th, when Mexicans commemorate the Grito de Dolores and Independence Day. But the pozole you savor today has a far more complex, and somewhat macabre, history.

A National Favorite on Independence Day

When Mexicans gather on the night of September 15th to celebrate their country’s independence, pozole reigns supreme as the dish of choice. A 2020 survey revealed that 45% of Mexicans consider pozole the quintessential meal for this patriotic celebration, cementing its place as a culinary staple.

Pozole isn’t just any dish; it’s part of the Mexican identity. Its vibrant mixture of flavors—from the earthy hominy to the rich broth and the variety of garnishes—evokes a sense of tradition and togetherness. Yet, few who enjoy this dish today know its true origins, a fascinating tale that stretches back to the Aztec empire, where the recipe was far more ritualistic.

Pozole’s Pre-Hispanic Roots: A Sacred Ceremonial Dish

The story of pozole begins in pre-Hispanic times, where it wasn’t merely a meal—it was part of sacred Aztec ceremonies. According to historical accounts, this dish was reserved for the emperor and high priests during religious festivals. But the most shocking element of early pozole is its original main ingredient: human flesh.

Yes, you read that correctly. Early versions of pozole were prepared with the flesh of warriors who had been sacrificed in honor of the gods. As described by Fray Bernardino de Sahagún in Historia General de las Cosas de la Nueva España, this practice of cannibalism was both spiritual and ceremonial. Consuming the flesh was a way to embody the strength and vitality of the warriors, in what was seen as an offering to the sun god, Huitzilopochtli.

Alfonso de Jesús Jiménez Martínez, a professor at the University of the Caribbean, elaborates on this, stating that Sahagún’s reports were undoubtedly influenced by the missionary’s own cultural and religious context, which saw these rites as savage and barbaric. However, for the Aztecs, this was a deeply sacred act, imbued with religious significance and meaning.

From Human to Pork: The Spanish Influence

After the Spanish conquest, the consumption of human flesh was swiftly eradicated. However, pozole did not vanish. The Spaniards replaced the human meat with pork, which, as history records, was said to bear a similar taste to human flesh. This adaptation allowed the dish to survive and evolve over time, becoming a beloved part of Mexican culinary culture.

The change in ingredients marked a shift from the ceremonial to the communal. While the original pozole was an exclusive meal for religious elites, the modern version has become a dish enjoyed by families across the nation, particularly during national celebrations.

The Many Faces of Pozole: Regional Varieties

Today, pozole comes in several variations, each tied to the region in which it is made. While the basic components of hominy, meat (usually pork or chicken), and broth remain the same, the preparation methods and flavors vary widely.

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White Pozole: The Classic

The most widely consumed version is pozole blanco, popular in central Mexico. It’s made with pork, usually the head, and simmered in a simple broth with cacahuazintle corn. Once served, diners add their preferred toppings, like lettuce, radishes, onions, and oregano, followed by a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of chile piquín. This version is typically paired with crispy tostadas.

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Red Pozole: A Taste of Jalisco

In the western state of Jalisco, and neighboring regions like Aguascalientes, pozole rojo is the dish of choice. Its distinctive color comes from dried red chiles, such as guajillo or mirasol, which are blended into the broth. This version carries a robust, smoky flavor and is a favorite at festive gatherings in these regions.

Green Pozole: The Bold Guerrero Tradition

In the state of Guerrero, Thursday nights are synonymous with pozole. Here, pozole verde is a popular variation, made with tomatillos, green chiles, and pepitas (pumpkin seeds), giving it a rich, green hue. This version is often served with unique garnishes such as pork cracklings, avocado, and even sardines in oil. A standout feature is the addition of a raw egg, cracked into the bowl just before serving so it cooks in the hot broth. Unlike the central Mexican version, Guerrero pozole omits radishes and lettuce, but packs a flavorful punch all its own.

Lesser-Known Variations Across Mexico

Pozole has many more versions, each reflecting the local ingredients and preferences of various Mexican regions. In the northern states like Chihuahua and Sonora, pozole might include beef tripe or venison bones. In Sinaloa, you can find pozolillo, a variation that incorporates tender corn with ancho chile for a smoky twist. Meanwhile, in Baja California Sur, pork spine is stewed with pasilla chile, creating a unique coastal interpretation.

There are even “dry” versions, like Colima’s pozole seco, where the dish is made without broth, and the ingredients resemble a casserole more than a soup. Some regions, like Aguascalientes, prepare a lighter version known as pozolín, made with young corn and poblano chiles. And, if you travel to Nayarit, you might stumble upon the rare pozole de camarón, a seafood lover’s dream that features shrimp as its primary protein.

A Dish of Unity and Celebration

Whether enjoyed in its traditional form or in one of its many regional adaptations, pozole remains a cherished symbol of Mexican identity. While its roots may be steeped in blood and ritual, today it represents unity and celebration. Each spoonful brings with it centuries of history, from the ancient Aztec temples to the bustling Mexican kitchens of today.

 

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