Oliviero Toscani (1942-2025), Italian photographer and publicist, marked a before and after in the advertising and visual art industries. World-renowned for his campaigns for United Colors of Benetton, Toscani sparked debates and made the invisible visible. His creative genius revolutionized the industry and left a lasting legacy.

What was Toscani’s style, and how did he revolutionize advertising?

Toscani was a pioneer in using provocative images that transcended the products they advertised. Under the concept of shockvertising, his work broke traditional advertising norms by addressing social issues such as racism, AIDS, religion, and poverty.

His iconic campaigns, such as the one featuring a terminal AIDS patient surrounded by family or the kiss between a priest and a nun, set milestones in the 1980s and 1990s.

“I have always addressed society’s problems, discrimination, racism, immigration, diseases,” Toscani stated. These images, although controversial, transformed Benetton into one of the most recognized brands worldwide, boosting its sales and positioning it as a symbol of diversity and inclusion.

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A brief biography of Oliviero Toscani

Son of Corriere della Sera photographer Fedele Toscani, Oliviero grew up surrounded by cameras and impactful images. He studied photography at the prestigious Kunstgewerbeschule in Zurich, where he was a student of Johannes Itten, one of the Bauhaus masters. From a young age, he worked with magazines such as Elle, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar, later collaborating with luxury brands like Valentino, Chanel, and Fiorucci.

His first major advertising scandal came in 1971 with a campaign for Jesus jeans, featuring his girlfriend Donna Jordan with the slogan: “Whoever loves me, follow me”. This audacity laid the foundation for his provocative style.

In addition to his advertising campaigns, Toscani worked as a fashion photographer, capturing iconic figures such as John Lennon, Muhammad Ali, Mick Jagger, and launching the careers of models like Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Monica Bellucci. His work has been exhibited at the Venice Biennale, the Museum of Modern Art in New York, and the Milan Triennale.

Provocation was the cornerstone of his work. His campaigns sparked debates about the ethical limits of advertising: how far is it acceptable to use human suffering to sell products? Toscani always defended his approach: “I have never had an owner, a salary; I have always been free”.

Even in his later years, he remained irreverent. In 2007, he caused a stir by photographing Isabelle Caro, a French model with anorexia, to denounce the beauty standards imposed by the industry.

What were his most notable contributions to Benetton?

Toscani worked with Benetton from 1982 to 2000, a period in which he defined the brand’s communication strategy. Among his most memorable campaigns are:

• Racial diversity: Photos of people from different races with the slogan “All the colors of the world”.
• Taboo topics: Addressing the AIDS epidemic with emotionally charged images.
• Social criticism: Highlighting racism and U.S. executions by photographing death row inmates.

His work went beyond the commercial, turning advertising into a medium for reflection and social debate.

What other projects defined his career?

In addition to Benetton, Toscani led major creative initiatives:

• Colors: Founded in 1990, this photographic magazine explored multiculturalism and global issues.
• Fabrica: In 1993, he established this artistic research center in Italy, inspired by Andy Warhol’s Factory.
• Razza Umana: A photographic project launched in 2007 documenting human diversity worldwide.

Toscani also ventured into teaching and published books on visual communication, solidifying his influence on future generations.

What was the cause of Oliviero Toscani’s death?

His death at the age of 82, due to amyloidosis, leaves an unparalleled legacy in the world of visual communication.

Oliviero Toscani not only transformed advertising but also challenged the world to confront its social issues head-on. His bold approach and ability to provoke redefined the boundaries of art and communication.

As Benetton expressed in its farewell message: “Some things cannot be explained with words alone. You taught us that”.

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